Until now, my focus has been on piston-engine aircraft, primarily from the WWII era. While these planes differ from one another, sometimes significantly, they share certain features. These similarities translate into a set of specific techniques used to replicate each aircraft. Although there are many approaches, methods, and tools available, I’ve limited myself to reproducing the unique qualities of this type of aircraft.
Now, I've decided to take on my first biplane to step out of my comfort zone and learn new skills. Though the model itself is relatively simple, it presents new challenges. I’ll need to figure out how to recreate wood and leather textures, as well as tackle the ribbing on the wings to achieve a realistic effect. Then, there’s the rigging to consider—a whole new aspect to master. I’m excited to see how it all turns out!
Engine
I began by working on the bottom wooden plate that holds the engine in the fuselage. To mimic a wood grain texture, I used a 3D decal from the Quinta Studio set. After soaking it in warm water for a minute, the decal was ready to apply. I coated the plastic part’s surface with Micro Metal Foil Adhesive, then removed the decal from its backing paper. Unfortunately, it curled up on itself. By the time I had straightened it out, the adhesive had become too tacky, making it difficult to adjust the decal’s position. In the end, I managed to align it, but the decal tore into three parts. Unexpectedly, this created a "cracked wood" effect that actually looked quite good. To blend everything seamlessly, I painted narrow gaps without decals with matching acrylic colours, then airbrushed the entire surface with X-26 Clear Orange to unify the tones. Finally, I applied GX Clear Brown to darken the wood’s overall appearance.
For weathering, I started by applying Brown and Sand Brown oil paints. After letting it sit for 30 minutes, I wiped off the excess with cotton pads. I followed this with a thin airbrushed layer of GX 114 flat varnish. As a final touch, I added Shafts and Bearing Grease to simulate grease and dirt, enhancing the realistic, weathered look.
I started by cutting out all the required parts and cleaning them up. Then, I assembled most of the engine, leaving a few parts separate to make painting easier. After that, I airbrushed Bilmodel primer and applied a layer of gloss black to prep the surface for the metallizer. Using Tamiya tape, I masked the upper parts of the engine and airbrushed the main body with Alclad II Hi-Shine Plus Aluminium. Once the masking tape was removed, I brush-painted the cylinders with Mr. Metalcolor Dark Iron, and after it dried, I lightly buffed the cylinders with cotton buds. To preserve the shine on the main body, I applied a layer of Gauzy Shine Agent.
In the next phase, I painted the smaller parts, starting with the cable insulation tubes in a mix of Old Rust and Dark Rust. The top of the engine was done in AK Oily Steel, while other small details were painted with appropriate acrylic colours. Finally, I airbrushed a thin layer of matte varnish over the cylinders to reduce the sheen.
The engine weathering process was straightforward. I began by adding a slight rusty effect to the cylinders with an Engine Grime wash. Once it was touch dry, I blended it with a clean brush. The crevices on the main body received an Earthy Grime oil wash, while the top of the engine got a Dust Oils wash. To finish, I added fresh oil stains using Fresh Engine Oil wash. For the final touch, I applied 3D decals to mimic information plates on the sides of the engine.
Cockpit
As always, I began by cutting out all the parts and cleaning them up. I decided to use a resin replacement for the pilot seat for its superior detail. Next, I prepared the photo-etched (PE) parts that I planned to include. In the following stage, I airbrushed everything with Bilmodel primer.
Cockpit Cage
Due to the model’s scale, the cockpit cage is represented by moulded frames on the inner sides of the left and right fuselage halves, with the cockpit floor as a separate part. Starting with the fuselage sides, I painted the frames white using Mr. Color 62.
I then carefully masked the frames with Tamiya tape cut to the correct width. Next, I applied black paint to create deep shadows around the ribbing. When I removed the tape, it revealed a strong contrast.
In the next step, I airbrushed a base coat of Grey Green (XF-76), thinning the paint and applying several light layers to preserve some of the preshading. I protected everything with a layer of gloss acrylic varnish.
For weathering, I started with a general wash of PLW Green Brown. Then, I used Earthy Grime oil wash to simulate dirt around the frames. To reduce shine, I airbrushed a thin layer of matte varnish. Finally, I used a Ginger Root weathering pencil to add fine scratches and scuffs, completing the worn effect.
Pilot Seat
To create a leather effect, I began by airbrushing the seat with Red Brown (H47) followed by Flat Earth (XF-52). I then dry-brushed it with Ammo Dry Brush Earth and Wood Brown (X-37) paints to add texture. Once dry, I applied oil paints in Smoke, Brown Wash, and Sand Brown shades. After about an hour, I gently removed the excess with cotton pads, allowing it to dry fully over a few days.
Next, I airbrushed a thin layer of matte GX114 varnish to protect the work and added a 3D decal to imitate the cushion. Moving on to the seat belts, I used decals from Quinta Studio, attaching them to the seat with CA glue. I weathered the belts using heavily diluted Streaking Brusher Grime with White Spirit and painted the buckles with Polished Metal acrylic paint. Finally, I used Sunny Flesh and Earthy Clay oil paints to highlight the seat’s edges, bringing out a realistic worn look.
Cockpit Floor and Details
I started by painting the floor in Grey Green (XF-76), then added highlights using a mix of Grey Green (XF-76) and Deck Tan (XF-55). I sealed this layer with an acrylic gloss varnish. Small parts were brush-painted with acrylics and Mr. Metalcolor paints.
For the wooden floor effect, I applied a 3D decal again, but this time used a slightly different approach. I applied Micro Metal Foil Adhesive to just part of the surface, then quickly but carefully placed the decal onto the plastic part. This gave me enough time to adjust its position and then adhere the rest of the decal in a few stages. Once in place, I airbrushed Clear Orange (X-26) over the floor. I then attached the rudder pedals, control stick, and front gauge. The front section was painted Silver.
Next, I prepared all other small plastic elements and added 3D decals to mimic the main instrument panel, switches, and gauges. These were glued into their respective places on the left and right fuselage halves. I then addressed the exposed edges of these small parts, which had only been primed. For a quick wood effect, I painted the edges with Orange (X-6) and applied Grime Streaking Brusher on top.
For weathering, I applied Grime and Winter Grime Streaking Brushers on the floor, blending them with a clean brush. Around the rudder pedals, I added Dust to simulate dirt from the pilot’s boots. The whole surface was then airbrushed with a thin layer of GX114 matte varnish to remove shine. Lastly, I added an extra layer of dirt around the rudder using Earthy Grime oil wash and attached the seat to the cockpit floor.
Assembling it all together
With all components ready, I began the final assembly of the interior. First, I attached the remaining small details to the fuselage sides.
Then, I secured the main instrument panel to the port side of the fuselage and attached the seat to the cockpit floor. Finally, I glued the cockpit floor and the wooden engine plate to the port side as well.
Recap
So far, I'm pleased with the results. I haven’t had to do much wood imitation thanks to the 3D decals, though they still require some weathering to achieve a convincing wood texture. I’m especially happy with how the leather pilot seat turned out, and the engine also came together nicely. Now, it's time to move on to the fuselage assembly and painting, along with some upcoming challenges like creating a wooden propeller and adding the rigging. Until the next update, please take a look at the photos of the finished cockpit and engine below.
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