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Writer's pictureLukasz Gmerek

Airacobra Cockpit

When building aircraft miniatures, I usually start by assembling and painting the cockpit first. This time, I tried a different approach to make the process more efficient. First, I identified all the parts that would need the same painting process later on. For this model, that included the cockpit, landing gear bays, doors, and struts. I assembled these parts first and then painted them all at once.


Cockpit

For the cockpit, I acquired a resin seat for the pilot, Eduard set for the P-39Q weekend edition, and 3D decals from Quinta Studio. Although I planned to use the Eduard set primarily for external enhancements, and 3D decals for the cockpit, there were still a few photo-etched elements from the Eduard set that I used to enhance it.


Since I had never used 3D decals before, I first learned all the tips on how to apply them—some were useful, others not so much, but more on that later. Then, I figured out the best time to apply them during the painting and weathering process of the cockpit. With this knowledge, I began the build.


Assembly

I started by removing all the required plastic parts from the sprues, including the fuselage halves. Next, I sanded down the attachment point residues and removed the ejection pin marks using liquid putty and sanding sticks. Then, I assembled the cockpit tub according to the instructions, leaving some parts separate for easier painting and handling. This assembly included the main landing gear bay, which is adjacent to the front cockpit bulkhead. In the following step, I added photo-etched (PE) parts and prepared some surfaces for the 3D decals by sanding them flush.


One interesting feature of this aircraft is that the pilot enters the cockpit through doors, rather than climbing over the cockpit frame. The interior surfaces of the doors are painted the same as the rest of the cabin. As a preliminary step, I polished the clear parts using Dspiae Liquid Model Rubbing Compounds of different grades, then masked the windows using ready-made masks from the Eduard set. I followed the same process for the canopy.


This model requires quite a lot of nose weight to prevent it from becoming a tail sitter due to the tricycle landing gear. To create more space for the ballast, I scratch-built a top cover for the main landing gear bay. This modification ensures that there is enough room for the additional weight. While working on this, I also scratch-built a few details in the cockpit.



Painting & Chipping

I started by applying a primer, my go-to product being Mr. Surfacer, and in this case, I used the black variant. Next, I applied a layer of AK481 Polished Aluminium as a base for chipping effects. Once it was dry to the touch, I protected all the painted surfaces with Mr. Colour Clear Gloss. In the following step, I applied two layers of AK Worn Effect acrylic fluid. After it dried, I started base painting.


Regarding the base paint color, Eduard recommends using Interior Green. However, after examining various photos of the real aircraft and consulting several sources, I found that the color used for the cabin interior, as well as the landing gear bays, doors, and struts, had a slightly different hue and was darker than Interior Green. I decided to use Interior Dark Dull Green from MRP as my base.


To achieve nice shading and add visual interest to the surfaces, I started with Interior Green from AK Real Colors, focusing on the upper surfaces. Next, I used Medium Green 42 from MRP, applying it to the lower surfaces and around crevices. Finally, I airbrushed Dark Dull Green to blend everything together. To enhance the darkest areas, I sprayed Tamiya Smoke X-19 over them.


Chipping this time was more difficult than usual, mainly because I used lacquer paints from MRP. Lacquers are very tough, reliable, and resistant to water and mechanical damage. Nevertheless, it is possible to perform chipping techniques with them, though it requires more time and pressure.

I started by wetting the surface with a standard brush, rubbing it for a minute or two to allow the water and the fluid to start reacting. This process takes longer with lacquers as the surface is very smooth, causing the water to flow down quickly. Next, I used a special brush with very short (around 5mm) and stiff bristles. Keeping the surfaces wet at all times and applying quite a bit of pressure, I started to rub the surface. After another minute, the first scratches began to appear. To make the effect more realistic, I concentrated the abrasions in areas like the cockpit floor and applied them less extensively elsewhere.


To introduce even more variety into the chipping, I used a sponge to apply Zinc Chromate Yellow (A.MIG 0221), a color actually used as a primer on the real aircraft.


Next, using appropriate acrylic colors, I painted all the details. I followed this with Zinc Chromate Interior Green acrylic paint to better expose protruding elements and edges, being careful not to over paint the scratches. Finally, I protected all the work with a layer of Mr. Hobby H30 gloss varnish.


3D Decals

At the beginning of this post, I mentioned that I learned several tips for properly applying the decals. One of these tips was to use CA glue, especially for smaller ones. However, this method did not work well for me. Perhaps I did something wrong, but the quick drying time of CA glue doesn’t allow much room for adjustments once the decal is on the surface. Additionally, if too much glue is used, the decals are easily damaged.


I quickly switched to another product: Micro Metal Foil Adhesive, and it worked like a charm. First, I spread the Micro Metal Foil Adhesive on the destination surface. Then, I submerged the decal in water. After a minute or so, I removed the decal with tweezers and drained off as much water as possible using a kitchen towel. Meanwhile, the adhesive became transparent. Using the tweezers, I applied the decal to the surface.


Weathering

Weathering began with the application of A.MIG PLW Green Brown wash. I applied it to all surfaces and blended it in after a few minutes. Next, I used Industrial Dirt oil wash, focusing only on panel lines and crevices. I then protected everything with a layer of semi-gloss varnish (Mr. Hobby 102).


In the following step, I used Starship Grime from the streaking effect palette to introduce the first layer of dirt. I enhanced this effect with Starship Bay Sludge Oilbrusher, mainly on the cockpit floor. A thin layer of matte varnish followed.


Next, I used weathering pencils to add additional scratches and highlight edges and protruding elements. I used three different colors: Sand, French Grey, and Silver. After that, I applied pigments, concentrating on the cockpit floor, starting with Fresh Field Sand and then Earthy Grime. On top of that, I applied oil washes: Light Dust and Industrial Dirt.


Pilot Harness

I used HGW seat-belts for a realistic effect. After assembly, I airbrushed a gloss layer of varnish. Once dry, I applied another layer, this time using matte varnish. For weathering, I used a mix of heavily diluted oil paints - Engine Grease and Dark Mud, and then protected it with another layer of matte varnish.


Next, I glued the seat-belts to the pilot seat using CA glue. Finally, I painted the buckles with matte aluminum color to make them stand out more. The seat was attached to the cockpit using Tamiya epoxy glue.



Main Instrument Panel

After applying the 3D decals, I protected them with a layer of matte varnish. Next, I weathered the surface using Industrial Dirt oil wash and added scratches using weathering pencils. Finally, I restored the glossy appearance of the indicators on the instrument panel using droplets of Clearfix, and then attached the panel to the cockpit floor.


Detailing

I began by assembling the door knobs and main instrument panel handles, using PE parts from the Eduard set. After cutting them out and bending them as instructed, I glued them into place. I then painted them red using a mix of Red and Black Matt from A.MIG.


Next, I prepared the gun-sight by painting it black and securing it with CA glue. Following this, I cut a piece of lead wire to the correct length, shaped it by winding it around a small-diameter metal cylinder, and attached both ends to the radio box behind the pilot seat. Lastly wire was painted black.


Finally, I attached a scratch-built braided hose, which had been appropriately painted and weathered beforehand, to the right side of the cockpit. As a finishing touch, I attached two small PE elements, completing the cockpit assembly.


Closing up

The entire cockpit frame was glued onto the port side of the fuselage. In the next step, I began adding ballast using Liquid Gravity from Deluxe Materials. I filled most of the space above the front landing gear bay and secured it in place by applying extra-thin CA glue.


Next, I applied CA glue to the mating surfaces of the frame on the starboard side and attached the second half of the fuselage. Although the fit was tight, with proper pressure and a mix of CA glue and Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, everything came together smoothly. The model is designed so that after closing the fuselage, there is still access to the frontal area above the landing gear bay, allowing adjustments to the ballast.


To check if enough weight had been added, I temporarily attached the landing gear struts and wheels. It turned out that a bit more ballast was needed, so I filled all available space, applied CA glue again, and closed the frontal part by attaching the top part with imitation machine guns.


Last Words

I'm really pleased with how the cockpit turned out. This was my first time using chipping methods exclusively to create scratches and paint abrasions, without any brush-painted chips, and I'm very happy with the result. I'm definitely interested in exploring this technique further.


Additionally, I had the opportunity to try MRP paints for the first time, and I'm quite impressed. They can be used straight from the bottle, are very efficient, and being lacquers, they spray beautifully. Yet, they still allow for chipping effects.


The 3D decals were also a great addition to the cockpit. Once I found the best process for applying them it turned out to be quite easy. What I like about that product is that they add spatial feel to the small elements compared to PE counterparts.


Until the next update, please enjoy the small gallery of the finished cockpit below. As always, I welcome any feedback and am happy to answer any questions. Cheers!




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Guest
Jul 12

Very nice work, congratulations 👌

For applying 3D decals I tried several methods and you are right the recommended CA glue is not the best. I think the best is Tamiya x-22 clear but next time I will try Micro Metal Foil Adhesive as you recommend.

Thanks for the tip. Keep going you excellent work and presentation.

Cheers

Laz

CSL VISUAL STUDIO


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Thanks for sharing Laz! Good to know that x-22 works as well, it is always good to have a choice of products :)

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Guest
Jul 12
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

Top!

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Thank you!

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