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Ju88 Decaling & Sub-assemblies

After completing the base painting, I moved on to applying decals and assembling various parts of the aircraft separately. Meanwhile, I also began adding weathering effects, but I'll talk more about that in my next update.


I really enjoy this phase of model building; it's quite calming and really boosts the overall appearance of the model. Even though I've only built a few models so far, I've had the chance to work with decals from various makers - some were good, others not so much. Unfortunately, applying decals for the Ju88C wasn't a pleasant experience at all. Interestingly, I only faced issues with the crosses and letters on the fuselage sides.

It should have been a quick task since there weren't many decals for this model (more similar to those for armored vehicles than typical aircraft). I began with the markings on the wings, which went smoothly. I used Micro Set and Micro Sol setting solutions. However, problems arose with the decals for the fuselage sides.

As usual, I soaked a decal in water for a few minutes, then carefully moved it from the backing onto the model using a clean brush. The trouble was that as I did this, the decals started to bend and curl up on themselves. I managed to salvage some, but I ended up missing markings for the port side of the fuselage. At first, I tried making my own stencils, but I wasn't satisfied with the result. So, in the end, I had to order another set. Knowing how tricky they were, I was extremely cautious when applying the rest. Thankfully, everything turned out fine in the end, but I definitely had some frustrating moments.


Engine Covers

For the engine covers, I'm using photo-etched (PE) parts from Eduard. I bent and painted the insides of the covers while assembling the engines. You can find more details by following the link provided.

In the next step, I painted the outer surfaces of the covers. This process was much simpler than the one used for the fuselage. Elements are small and all the blemishes and imperfections of the paint will be added as a part of the weathering process. First, I airbrushed the base color (RLM 76) and then applied a layer of gloss varnish. Next, I marked the continuation of the mottles from the upper part of the engines with a pencil and used the same technique as for the main fuselage to airbrush them with RLM 75 paint. Another layer of gloss varnish followed.

Before starting the weathering process, there was one more thing to do. Two of the four covers have round openings through which ground crew can check readings on the control panels. These openings are covered with glass, and Eduard provides acetate film for this purpose. I used small amounts of CA glue to attach the films in place.

For weathering, I began by applying a Black Brown oil wash over the interior surfaces of the covers. After a few minutes, I blended it nicely with a brush. The exterior surfaces were treated with PLW Dark Sea Blue, and after a couple of minutes, I removed the excess with a cotton pad. Everything was protected with a layer of gloss varnish. To depict general dirt and grime, I used Earthy Grime and Industrial Dirt oil washes. I applied them over the wet surface and then started distributing them to achieve nice patterns after a few minutes. Then, I began the blending process with a clean flat brush. Finally, the surface was protected with another layer of gloss varnish. To introduce dirt left on the covers by the ground crew I added Black and Neutral Brown washes by applying small dots and when they were touch dry blended them in. Finally I protected everything wity layer of transparent mat lacquer (GX 112).

Nose and FuG Radar

For the FuG 220 radar, I opted to use a set from Master, which includes five complete turned brass aerials and a photo-etched frame with small parts, providing a more realistic and detailed appearance for the antennas.

To begin, I removed the original parts from the sprues. Each arm has a plastic part containing both the bracket and the antenna itself. I started by cutting out the antenna part of the arm and then used mini drills to create openings for the brass parts. I began with a 0.3mm diameter drill, gradually widening it with a 0.4mm and then a 0.5mm drill to ensure I wouldn't drill through the small plastic rod.

Next, I assembled the aerials - there are four of them, each consisting of seven parts, including three brass parts and four PE details. The PE parts act as holders attached to the main rod, with two sticks attached perpendicular to the main one. These PE parts are very small, and ideally, soldering would be best. However, lacking the equipment and knowledge for soldering (something I intend to learn in the future), I used glue instead. First, I created a holder for the main rod so I could have two hands free while gluing the tiny parts. Then, using CA glue and a lot of patience, I managed to assemble everything together and let it dry for a couple of hours.

In the next step, I glued together the aerials and brackets, obtaining ready components to attach to the nose of the aircraft, which proved to be quite challenging. Aligning the arms according to each other was very difficult. In the end, I managed to do so, but not entirely. Looking at photos of the real thing, the top and bottom aerials are aligned vertically, which unfortunately I wasn't able to accomplish, probably due to incorrectly gluing the arms to the nose of the aircraft. Despite this misalignment, the result was satisfactory.

For painting, I started with grey Mr. Surfacer, followed by the base color RLM 76 and a gloss varnish on top of that. For weathering, I followed a similar approach as described above for the engine covers. Finally I protected everything wity layer of transparent mat lacquer (GX 112) and on top of that added scratches with Dirty White weathering pencil.


I began by cutting out all the necessary parts from the sprues and cleaned them up. Next, I applied a layer of grey Mr. Surfacer primer. The following steps were a bit different for the blades and the hub.


Painting began with the Schwarzgrun color (RLM 70). Then, I mixed in a bit of white to create a lighter shade and airbrushed it using stencils to create marbling effects on the surfaces of the blades. After that, I applied a thin layer of diluted base color to blend everything together. Finally, I protected everything with a layer of gloss varnish.

Since Ju88C aircraft had wooden blades, I simulated scratches and paint abrasions using brown acrylic paint. For weathering, I used washes to add some dirt. Then, I airbrushed a layer of matte varnish and used weathering pencils to complete the job.


First, I airbrushed the base color (RLM 70) and protected it with a layer of gloss varnish. Scratches and chipping were created using a sponge and matte aluminium acrylic paint. Then, I mixed the base color with a bit of white and chipped again with the sponge. After allowing it to dry, I applied Moldy Green oil wash all over the hubs' surfaces. After a few minutes, I blended it in with a brush and applied a layer of semi-gloss acrylic varnish.

Next, using PLW Dark Green and Blue Grey washes, I added stains and dirt to the hubs using a mottled spots technique. Additionally, I applied Streaking Grim product around panel breaks and then used a clean brush to distribute it back according to the airflow. Finally, the hubs were airbrushed with a layer of matte acrylic varnish.

With the blades and hubs ready, all that was left was to assemble them together, and I had propellers ready to be mounted onto the model in the final assembly stage.

Exhaust Covers

As the Ju88C B-6 type was a Night Fighter aircraft, it had exhaust covers mounted to prevent flames from escaping the exhaust and blinding the pilot during night flights. The painting and weathering process was quite similar to that of the engine exhausts. I began with a steel base and then applied Track wash generously. Once dry, I added pigments of different colors to introduce dirt and soot. For the final touch, I applied black and dark rust pigments using a sponge, and then everything was covered with pigment fixer.

Landing Gear Covers

After cutting the parts from the sprues and cleaning them up, I airbrushed them with grey Mr. Surfacer primer. The interiors were painted with Grau color (RLM 02), while the exteriors were painted with Hellgrau (RLM 76). Next, I airbrushed a layer of gloss acrylic varnish.

Scratches and chipping were applied with a brush using a dark color. For weathering, the interior was treated with a Black Brown oil wash, while the exterior surfaces received a general wash with PLW Dark Sea Blue. Once dry, I applied Industrial Dirt and Earthy Grime oil washes to introduce more dirt and grime and then layer of gloss acrylic varnish. In the next step using dot technique I added Black and Shadow for Desert Brown washes around bottom edges of the covers. After it was touch dry I blended it in with the clean brush.  Finally I protected everything wity layer of transparent mat lacquer (GX 112).

Machine Guns and Cannon

After cutting out and cleaning up the parts, I worked on the dorsal 2 x 7.92 mm MG 81 machine guns, which were operated by the radio operator/gunner in the crew cabin. Both machine guns were attached to the main glazing with leather belts. These were replicated by Eduard as PE parts, so I cut them out and bent them accordingly. However, they turned out to be too short. Luckily, there were two spare belts, so I used parts of them as extensions to the other ones. Once ready, I attached them to the machine guns.

The nose-mounted MG FF cannon was assembled, and a hole was drilled in the nose so that it could go through it.

All parts were primed with grey Mr. Surfacer. Then, I airbrushed GX1 black color over all surfaces. Next, I brush painted the belts and buckles. Once dry, I applied Gun Metal pigment and rubbed it in with a cotton bud. Finally, I applied a thin layer of brown wash to simulate rust in some areas. The ammunition belts for the machine guns were airbrushed with Xtreme Metal Copper color.

Final Words

As I am finishing this blog entry, weathering of the aircraft is fast approaching its final stages as well! Soon enough I will reach this exciting moment of putting everything together. Meanwhile please enjoy few photos of finished sub-assemblies for the Ju88C Night Fighter. As always please leave a comment, ask questions, I will definitely answer.

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May 07
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

Very nice work, congratulations 👌

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Thank you so much! :) :)

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