Pfalz D.III a Fuselage Assembly, Painting & Decals

Finally, after over six months, I’ve found some time to return to my hobby. Unfortunately lack of time situation is not going to change drastically for the next year. All the more so, lets deep dive to the next stage of building my first biplane.

Assembly

The assembly process was straightforward and easy, as expected, given the model’s simplicity and the small number of parts. I began by gluing the two fuselage halves together, followed by attaching the lower wings and the empennage. The parts fit together very well, so I was able to proceed quickly using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.

Next, I masked the cockpit and engine using Tamiya masking tapes and proceeded with initial sanding to identify areas where putty might be necessary. I found that only the joint along the fuselage halves required attention to eliminate the seam line. The correction was minimal, so Liquid Putty was more than enough to fill the gap. After allowing sufficient drying time, I sanded down the excess putty, cleaned the surface, and airbrushed primer over the corrected areas to check the results. If necessary, I repeated the process.

I then widened and deepened the holes for the turnbuckles, and drilled additional ones where needed. With the model prepared, I moved on to priming. This time, I used Bilmodel's grey surfacer, which I found to be a fantastic product. It doesn’t require thinning for airbrush use and creates a smooth base for further painting.

Once the primer dried, I applied some of the available 3D decals from the Quinta Studio set. I used decals simulating the attachment points for control cables on the empennage and walkways on the wings. After airbrushing a layer of semi-gloss acrylic varnish over the 3D decals to protect them, I added another layer of primer on top.

Painting

Based on my sources, the fuselage was covered in dark green fabric, the rudder was white, and there was a distinctive pattern of black stripes painted on the underside of the fuselage over the factory-applied silver.

Vertical Stabiliser

I began with the vertical stabilizer to avoid painting over the darker green later. To accentuate the ribbing, I first masked the rudder, leaving the stripes beneath each rib exposed. I then painted those stripes with C13 (Neutral Grey), airbrushing to create a slight gradient effect for shadows under each rib. Once this step was complete, I removed the masking tape and airbrushed C62 (Flat White) over the entire surface, followed by a thin layer of C316 (White FS17875) on top.

Fuselage

I started by airbrushing C135 (Russian Green) over the entire fuselage, excluding the vertical stabilizer, which I had masked earlier. The areas that would be covered by Lozenge camouflage decals (the bottom wings and the underside of the top wing) were later on painted with just the final green colour.

With the Russian Green applied, I used the mottling technique with selected templates and C62 (Flat White) and C319 (Light Green) to add variety. Then, using a sponge and H312 (Green FS34277), I added another layer of interest to the surface. The top surface of the top wing, after masking everything except the ribs, received a layer of H312 (Green FS34277). At this point, I had built a highly varied base, so I followed with the final colour application.

Using a mix of four different paints: X-5 (Green), XF-64 (Red Brown), X-18 (Semi-Gloss Black), and XF-2 (White) in a ratio of 4:3:1:1 I received the colour I was looking for and airbrushed it in a very thin layers, ensuring the base remained slightly visible. As soon as the paint was touch dry, I gently rubbed the surface with sanding sponges (400 and 600 grits) to replicate the effect of worn-out linen. It’s easy to overdo the effect, so I took my time and checked the results often.

Next, I recreated the paint pattern on the underside of the fuselage. After masking the model around a bottom area, I airbrushed it with a mix of XF-1 (Flat Black) and XF-64 (Red Brown) in a ratio of 5:2. I then sprayed a very thin layer of black (XF-1). The tedious process of masking the stripes followed, and it took several attempts to get the proper number and width. Once this was done, I airbrushed GX-1 (Black) as a base and followed with C8 (Silver) on top.

Lastly, I painted the radiator on the top wing. The upper surface was painted with GX-1 (Black) as a base, followed by AK 481 (Polished Aluminium) as the final color. The lower surface received GX-1 (Black), with MC 214 (Dark Iron) brush-painted on top and then polished with a cotton swab.

All paint work was protected with two layers of GX-112 (Clear Gloss) lacquer.

Decals

I began by applying the insignia and smaller decals on both sides of the fuselage, using Micro Set and Micro Sol as always for decal placement. This step was quick, as there were only a few markings to apply.

Since this Eduard model was released in 2021, I suspected it already featured Eduard's latest decals—those with removable carrier film. Before applying the Lozenge decals, I decided to test this on the markings already attached to the model.

Using a clean brush, I wet the surface of the decal with White Spirit and allowed it to react for about 30 seconds. Then, with the same clean brush, I gently rubbed the surface starting from the edge of the carrier film. The film began to peel off, revealing a painted-on effect. It’s important to note that the brush should neither be too soft (which won't react with the film) nor too hard (which could scratch the surface of the already applied decal). The removal process requires patience, as it’s easy to damage the decal. It’s also crucial that the decal adheres well to the surface, which is why using a decal softening fluid is essential.

Eduard decals can be somewhat resistant to Micro Set, especially at the edges with sharp angles, so I opted for a stronger product—AK Decal Adapter Solution. This worked brilliantly, allowing the decals to perfectly conform to the surface and look flawless after the carrier film was removed.

The application of the Lozenge camouflage took quite a bit of time, mostly due to the process of carrier film removal. On some areas of the wings, there are three layers of decals: the Lozenge camouflage itself, followed by narrow camouflage stripes applied to the ribbing, and finally, a layer of insignia markings. Each layer required me to apply the decals, wait at least 24 hours, remove the film, protect the surface with a thin layer of clear gloss acrylic varnish, wait for that to dry, and then repeat the process for the next layer. Finally whole decaling work was protected with layer of acrylic gloss lacquer.

Recap

In general, this small biplane comes together quite quickly due to the limited number of parts and the model's size. There are moments, like the decal application, that require time and patience, but overall, it’s been an easy build so far. I’m pleased with the results, especially the surface painting and the painted-on appearance of the Lozenge camouflage. Now, it’s time to move on to the weathering phase! I’ve also started working on the subassemblies, which will be covered in the next blog post. For now, check out a few photos of the painted and decaled Pfalz D.III A. Cheers!